Friday, May 16, 2025 marked seven months (October 16, 2024) since I moved into my Zagreb apartment, which resulted in me signing the notarized long-term lease on October 21. I moved completely out of my Napa apartment on January 17, four months ago. I hadn’t realized it has been so long. Time is passing so quickly!
I’ve been traveling a lot between then and now: mostly between Croatia and the U.S. multiple times to move my belongings one or two suitcases at a time, lead a college viticulture class tasting of Croatian wines, host three Croatian wine events in Northern California, and pet/house sit twice. I also traveled to Serbia for Wine Vision by Open Balkan in November, Hungary in April-May for Portugieser du Monde and a wine festival in Somló-hegy, and Poreč, Istria (Croatia) for Vinistra, the region’s annual wine fair. This week I travel to the London Wine Fair to attend the Wine Travel Awards Ceremony. After this trip, I am finally home until the end of June.
Home. Zagreb is my only physical home, the place where I have a residential address and pay rent. I do not not pay rent or own a home in the U.S., I only have a mailing address.
When I returned to Napa the first week of March – the first time since I had officially vacated my apartment there – I felt like a visitor in the place I’d called home for 11 years.
That’s pretty profound.
But I’m happy with my decision.
Every day in Zagreb and/or throughout Croatia, I experience something new. Every encounter has been a reminder of how kind people are – and reassured me that I made the right choice.
I was shopping in my neighborhood Pepco – a low-cost retailer that carries clothing, household items, etc. I picked up a dish drying rack for €4 (!). As I was walking around the store with it in my hand, a clerk came running up to me. She had the drainer base for the rack that I would have overlooked if she hadn’t found me to make sure I had it.
In Poreč, I found a locals’ caffè bar near my Airbnb. I ordered two cappuccinos. When I returned the following day, the same server approached me and said, “Cappuccino?” He remembered. I was impressed.
And he laughed when I said no, a Gemišt – white wine (usually Graševina, but perhaps Malvazija in Istria) and sparkling mineral water – similar to what we know as a spritzer.
I am also frequently reminded how inexpensive things are here in comparison to the U.S. Below are photos of my brunch at Half Time in Poreč – €9 for ALL of this food in both photos. (I brought half back to my Airbnb made two meals of it).
I also never tire of taking ZET to Trg bana Josipa Jelačića. I love the liveliness of the square filled with residents and tourists alike. Summer is coming – you can see it and feel the energy.
I also found a local hair salon only a 10-minute walk from my apartment (through a WhatsApp expat group recommendation) and had my first international color, cut, and style. Every step of the way, the stylist kept asking, “Is this OK?” It was more than OK – and the cost was half of what I’d pay in Napa.
As a side note, I thought I’d update you on how I fared traveling by bus again between Zagreb and Poreč.
The WC at the Zagreb bus station is €0.40 – cash only – and there’s a machine by the entry to get change for your euro coins. I did see someone sneak in a second person, just like that woman did for me last year.
At our stop at the station in Rijeka, it’s €0.50 – and I had exact change for that, too.
On the return, I was ready again. I discovered there’s a WC at Poreč bus station, so I went in to check it out. It’s a whopping €1. I know as Americans, we don’t understand paying to use a public WC, but you’re paying for cleanliness and maintenance – and it’s better here – at least that’s been my experience.
When the bus to Zagreb arrived, the conductor took notice of me – he thought I was a tourist. He invited me to sit in the front row with no one beside me. When we stopped in Rijeka, he made sure I knew it was a 10-minute stop and I could get off for the WC, food, drink, etc.
The Croatian kindness culture is incomparable to anywhere I’ve lived or visited.
A few weeks ago, I found out that I’m eligible to apply for a residency extension until August 2026 – and I already know I am going to do it.