April 26, 2024
It has been one year since I arrived in Croatia for the first time
One year ago today, I arrived in Zagreb, Croatia for the first time. My initial experience was negative, so who knew it would result in me moving here six months later?
The Hungarian Wine Summit in Budapest had concluded April 25, so I transferred to a hotel close to Budapest-Déli train station, where I would depart for Zagreb the following day. It was my first solo international train travel.
When I arrived at Budapest-Déli, I had to climb stairs to the departures level, but as a struggled with my large, heavy suitcase, a young Hungarian man stopped to help me. He RAN up the stairs with my bag and waited for me to catch up. I thanked him.
The one daily direct Budapest-Zagreb departure on MÁV Magyar Államvasutak Zrt (the state-owned Hungarian train service) is in the late afternoon with many stops, so the duration is about 6-7 hours and arrives after 10:00 PM.
However, due to construction, we had to disembark at the last stop in Hungary, Gyékényes, take a bus to a train station in Croatia, Koprivnica, then board another train to Zagreb.
When we had to disembark and board the bus, then transfer again to the second train, two young backpackers – who were traveling from European capital city to another, I learned – helped me with my suitcase, including when we disembarked in Zagreb.
I was exhausted. As I walked out of the train station, I saw a line of taxis. I had intended on taking a rideshare (Uber or Bolt), but instead, walked to the taxis. A driver beckoned me to his car. I got in. I texted the family who was hosting me in their apartment that I was on the way. The driver’s GPS took me nearby, but not to the exact address. (I would later learn this was a problem and how to handle it when I returned to live there for four weeks.). The driver did not quote me a price, nor did he provide a receipt (a big no-no in Croatia), but he swiped my credit card and I got out. As he drove away, I received a text alert to the charge. It was for €50! The driver had taken advantage of me, the weary American. I should have known better – and I did – but I was just so tired – and too trusting. When I moved into the apartment three weeks later, I often used Uber/Bolt to travel to the city center near the train station and the rate would be anywhere between €4-7.
It was pitch-black dark where the driver dropped me off. I could not see a street sign or number. I sent a WhatsApp message to the family saying I didn’t know where I was dropped off, but it was close. Thankfully they knew where because of the GPS issue and quickly arrived to pick me up and take me to their apartment and show me around.
On the table was a large charcuterie plate, a salad, and a bottle of Croatian wine. They said they thought I would be hungry after such a long journey, so that’s why they prepared such a plentiful spread.
I would experience similar welcomes during the seven weeks I spent in Croatia. It was this kindness and generosity that softened the blow of being duped by the taxi driver – and would result in me wanting to extend my stay here.